• Atna Peaks on the left and Rime Peak on the right.
  • A map of the Atna Peak summit route
  • Climbing the north face of Atna Peak

Overview

Atna Peak (13,860ft)
Route Elevation Gain: 7,300ft

AI3-4, Steep Snow, Alaska Grade II - Keith Hart and party in 1955

Season: Spring/Summer

The North Face of Atna Peak is one of the most striking and beautiful features in the Wrangell Mountains. The North Face/West Ridge is described in Colby Coombs "Alaska Guide Book." The guide book gives the ridge a begin rating, but expect thousands of feet of blue alpine ice and knife ridge snow climbing.

Route Description: The LZ is the same as Rime Peak at 7,000ft on the Nabesna Glacier. A camp can be made in a maze of crevasses at 8,000ft. Another camp can be made at 12,000ft in the col between Ahtna and Rime Peak. Gaining this col is very avalanche prone due to wind loading. Once at the Col gain the west ridge which is composed of classic Alaska alpine ridge climbing including technical AI 3-4 sections. The ridge may be difficult to gain due to a large bergshrund that runs across the face and ridge.